The Luxe Chronicles

Fashion: The Seedier Side of the Industry

U.K. supermarket chain Asda is launching a cheap knock-off version of the Balmain mini-dress worn by Kate Moss. By knock-off, I mean quite literally a seam-for-seam copy rather than the typical "homage" piece or "re-interpretation". The usual argument invoked to defend this blatant rip-off of intellectual property is to suggest that the target customer (high street consumer) is not the typical Balmain customer and therefore Balmain doesn't lose sales and incurs no harm. I find this argument unpersuasive and intellectually dishonest.

Fashion: What's Wrong With Fashion Magazines?

"Seriously?!"

It has become fashionable (pardon the pun) to dissect the troubles afflicting print fashion magazines these days. The recession, excessive photoshopping, underfed models, the stale content of many magazines and of course, the Internet, are routinely cited as explanations for the overall decline in ad revenue and circulation. U.S.Vogue as the industry leader is getting more than its share of scrutiny and critique (much of it deserved). While many of the reasons cited may indeed be contributing factors, I don't think any of the analyses proffered to date are particularly convincing.

Fashion: The Highly Quotable and Highly Lovable Alber Elbaz

Too often in fashion, the industry opts for hype over substance. Usually someone young, cute and perky with a smidgeon of talent gets anointed by the "right people" and they're off and running before they can even walk. Before the ink is dry on their design degree, they unveil an eponymous line followed in quick succession by accessories, a fragrance, a diffusion line, a one-off collaboration with Target or H&M, etc., etc. Every so often however, someone comes along and reminds you that there is more to good fashion than all this hoopla.

Luxury: A Reprieve for Lacroix?

Extraordinary times call for extraordinary measures. France's newly minted culture Minister, Frédéric Mitterrand, has expressed his intention to assist Christian Lacroix in finding a solution to his current financial crisis. Describing the potential loss of Lacroix's couture business as "un désastre culturel" (a cultural disaster), Mr. Mitterrand has vowed to step in and in his words "ne pas rester inerte" (not remain passive). En toute déférence Monsieur le Ministre, il était temps!

Sincerely,

The Luxe Chronicles

Haute Couture: God Is In The Details - Why Not Just Enjoy Them?

Every couture season, it's the same story: chroniclers of fashion invariably question the future of the tiny industry. Usually, they point to the dwindling number of couture clients throughout the world and surmise that it's only a matter of time before there are none left and legendary couture houses are forced to shutter their ateliers forever. Of course, the fact that the future of Christian Lacroix's couture house looks increasingly bleak hasn't helped matters. "Was the sunset at Chanel symbolic of couture’s fading light?" asks New York Times' fashion critic Cathy Horyn.

Fashion: Vive Lacroix!

And vive the spirit of solidarity that binds the French fashion community!

Fashion: Haute Couture's Rising Stars

Lest you come away with the impression that Dior was the only couture house to unveil a collection in Paris yesterday, I would like to draw your attention to two other very talented couturiers each of whom presented a parade of gorgeous creations worthy of attention.

Fashion: A Reality Check from Manolo Blahnik

Fashion designers are often portrayed as being frivolous or eccentric or both and it's not uncommon for them to be mocked by those outside the industry. This was abundantly on display for instance in Morley Safer's supremely superficial profile of Anna Wintour for U.S. "news" program 60 Minutes a few months back. While some designers like John Galliano or Karl Lagerfeld do indeed invite that kind of derision by cultivating an eccentric public persona and making provocative statements to the press, they are hardly the norm. There are plenty of very talented designers who stand firmly on the other end of the spectrum like shoe-tsar Manolo Blahnik but the press rarely focus on them.

Fashion: Chanel Inc. on How to Make Friends and Influence People

Many journalists, writers, online editors and bloggers received the above notice from Chanel's corporate parent recently politely instructing them to refrain from what the company considers an inappropriate usurpation of their brand name (please click on the above image to read). Not since Apple Computer tried (unsuccessfully) to prevent the use of any and all images resembling that most ubiquitous fruit, the apple, has a brand sought to push the limits of trademark infringement law this far.

Friday Mea Culpa

I've been a naughty blogger. Perhaps it is the unseasonably warm weather here in London or merely the million and one distractions around me but my heart and my head have just not been into it. Rather than publish something vapid or not à la hauteur of my distinguished readers, I decided to not publish at all. I promise I'll do better next week. Until then, have a lovely weekend.

Sincerely,

The Luxe Chronicles