London-based designer Jonathan Saunders recently announced his plans to show his next collection in New York and continue showing there for the "foreseeable future". It begs the question: Why are some of London's most successful and most promising designers choosing to show in cities other than London? What's the matter with London?
Vivienne Westwood, Stella McCartney and Alexander McQueen consistently show in Paris. Preen, Marchesa and Alice Temperley show in New York. It's especially curious given that most of these designers, including Saunders, live and run their businesses from London. Only Georgina Chapman and Karen Craig, the duo behind the Marchesa label which recently garnered the 2007 British Fashion Council award for Red Carpet Designer of the Year, actually live and work in New York. While Matthew Williamson and Luella Bartley each held shows in London this year, there is some question as to whether they'll show in London again next year or rather be returning to New York where they've been showing for the past few years. The Luxe Chronicles suspects it was no coincidence they chose to show their Spring 2008 collections at London Fashion Week. Luella Bartley was opening a stand-alone store in London during London Fashion Week and Matthew Williamson was being honored with a museum exhibit in London around that time. Matthew Williamson especially is likely to return to New York given that his financial backer is US-based TSM Capital (an investment fund founded by former U.S. department store executive Marvin Traub) which bought a 22 per cent stake in Wiliamson's brand in August 2007.
Although the grande dame of the London fashion scene, Vivienne Westwood, is rumoured to be showing a collection in London in February 2008, it is unclear whether this is a one-off event or whether she intends to forsake Paris Fashion Week for London definitively. What is clear is that despite the buzz and excitement surrounding London as a fashion center, the city still struggles in the shadow of Paris, Milan and New York. The Luxe Chronicles can't help wondering why that is. Any thoughts on the subject? Please share them with The Luxe Chronicles.
Photographic References:
Left to right: Jonathan Saunders, Fall/Winter 2007; Designer, Jonathan Saunders; Jonathan Saunders, Fall/Winter 2007.
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