'Luxe' By Hermes' Christian Blanckaert: An Outsider's Inside View Of The Luxury Industry

A Parisian friend who works in the luxury industry recently sent me a copy of 'Luxe', a book written by Christian Blanckaert. Blanckaert is head of Hermes' international division and his book is a collection of brief but insightful observations about Hermes and the luxury industry in general. Blanckaert himself is an interesting figure. He came to Hermes not from a rival luxury brand but rather from Thomson, the French technology and electronics giant. His perspective therefore blends both the access of an insider with the fascination of an outsider who hasn't developed the myopia of those who have known only the luxury industry and nothing else.

The book is worth reading for the many insights it offers on Hermes' way of doing business. Most importantly, it offers a glimpse of those qualities that set Hermes apart from the rest. For instance, faced with a shortage of skilled artisans to meet growing demand for their coveted products, Hermes could easily have taken the route followed by other luxury brands such as shifting from handmade artisanal production to assembly-line production techniques. Hermes could also have opted to outsource production to cheaper overseas markets. Instead, Hermes turned to an economically depressed area of France and set up training programs for the region's unemployed residents thereby creating long term employment and stimulating economic growth for an entire region. Not an obvious choice given the strength of the Euro and the softening economy but an obvious one for Hermes.

What emerges from this collection of musings is the portrait of a company deeply committed to its heritage and willing to place quality and longevity of the Hermes brand above quarterly profits. Sadly, what also emerges is the conclusion that Hermes is in an increasingly lonely category - 'true luxury'. I use the term 'true luxury' because the term 'luxury' alone doesn't really mean anything anymore. Its overuse and misappropriations by marketeers and brands alike have eviscerated any original meaning the term once had. Perhaps this explains why in a world that counts an ever increasing number of 'luxury' brands trying to sell often dubious goods to an ever increasing number of millionaires and billionaires, a two-year waiting list for a Birkin bag suddenly seems perfectly reasonable. So, for those of you who are patiently (or impatiently) awaiting your coveted 'Kelly' or 'Birkin', I highly recommend you pick up a copy of 'Luxe' to read during the wait.

'Luxe' is published by le cherche-midi and is available from Amazon's French site. Bonne lecture!

Sincerely,

The Luxe Chronicles

Photographic References:

Left to right: Multicolored Hermes 'Kelly' bag; 'Luxe' by Christian Blanckaert (le cherche midi, 2007); Orange crocodile Hermes 'Birkin' bag.

Comments

[Helene]

Dear Marella:

Thank you for your comment. I've personally never come across an English version but then again, I haven't been looking for it either. You might have a look for it on Amazon.

Helene

[marella alfieri]

I JUST WANT TO KNOW IF LUXE book written by Christina Blanckaert
is available in english version.
Thank you

[Patricia Fieldwalker]

Dear Helene:
How lovely of you to reply. I have just completed two collections for DPorthault and they are now available in the new boutique at 50 Ave. Mongtaigne in Paris and in the DPorthault stores in both Dallas and New York. I have endeavoured to be faithful to the whimsical qualities of the DPorthault prints and to the fine tradition of the co-founder Madeline Porthault in the 1920's. Her passion and her committment to excellence have been my guide throughout this project. It has been a great honor to be selected as the designer for this first "Nouveau Porthault" collection of lingerie and sleepwear. I hope it will be a welcome new direction from the usual "blanc de blanc" in most fine linen stores.
Bien cordialement,
Patricia Fieldwalker

[Helene]

Thank you for your comment Patricia. I share your deep respect for Hermes and its traditions and couldn't agree more that the cachet of 'Made In France' depends on preserving French work skills. Let me know more about your sleepwear and lingerie line for DPorthault. Perhaps The Luxe Chronicles can do a brief feature when it launches? Good luck!

Helene
The Luxe Chronicles

[Patricia Fieldwalker]

I have just completed a design project of sleepwear and lingerie for the French linen house DPorthault in their signature cotton prints.I was delighted to read about the Hermes decision to train French workers to deal with the shortage of skilled artisans rather than outsourcing to cheap labor markets. The cachet of French luxury products will not survive unless they are Made in France to the original standards. Bravo Hermes for remaining committed to excellence and for having the wisdom to preserve the artisanal traditions that have made French goods coveted the world over.

[Hermes Birkin]

Most celebrities have this kind and brand of bag. I already saw some of these in Victoria Beckham and Julia Roberts. Anyway, they have the right since they can afford it.

[Helene]

Many thanks for your kind words Dahlia! I also enjoyed Dana Thomas' book 'Deuxe'. Both books are worth reading as they offer different perspectives of the luxury industry. I can also recommend Roberto Saviano's 'Gomorrah: Italy's Other Mafia' (Macmillan, 2007) which chronicles the links between Italy's fashion industry and the Chinese and Italian underworlds. I'll be publishing a review tomorrow (Friday).

A bientot j'espere!

Helene
The Luxe Chronicles

[Dahlia]

Hi! Just discovered your blog. I really love the topics you're covering on luxury since I'm in the midst of reading a few books on luxury.

Dana Thomas' "Deluxe: How Luxury Lost Its Luster" has a chapter talking about the making of Hermes' famous handbags and the process of assembling them. Very interesting!

Thanks for mentioning "Luxe By Hermes", hopefully I'll be able to find here.

Cheers!