Turmoil At Valentino: More Details Emerge

For a fashion label that has over the years become synonymous with grace and elegance, the House of Valentino (owned by Private equity firm Permira) certainly displayed neither in their cavalier dismissal of Alessandra Fachinetti just minutes after unveiling the label's Spring/Summer 2009 collection last week. To be precise, she learned officially of her dismissal by the members of the press. C'est classe, non? A recent press release by Valentino Garavani and Giancarlo Giametti offers precious insight into the circumstances surrounding the dismissal of Facchinetti. After reading their respective statements, one would be forgiven for thinking that this debacle has at its root a struggle to maintain control on the part of the label's founder and his inability to meaningfully 'let go'. Indeed, the joint press release by Giametti and Garavani suggests that the ousting of Facchinetti seems to have more to do with Garavani's desire to continue to control the direction of the label (despite lip-service paid to 'retirement') than any failings on the part of Facchinetti. The appointment of Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli, long-term employees of the label (and therefore trained by and loyal to Garavani), confirms this. How two accessories designers (albeit very talented ones) are suddenly expected to turn out several pret-a-porter and haute couture collections per year is unclear. It's a good thing there are two of them. Perhaps Garavani should take his cue from Lance Armstrong and just come out of retirement altogether rather than to maintain the charade of retirement while he actively pulls the strings from behind the scenes. Ce serait definitivement plus 'classe' Monsieur Valentino.

Sincerely,

The Luxe Chronicles

Comments

[Helene]

Thanks for your comment willowblue. A joint reference to Hebe Dorsey and Marc Bohan no less - I'm honored that The Luxe Chronicles attracts such learned followers. As for Galliano's Spring/Summer 09 collection, to the extent that fashion is a reflection of society's values and preoccupations, it's to be expected that in tough economic times designers turn out more "commercial" collections. Fashion is a business after all.

Helene

[willowblue]

Sounds something like that old story about Dior designer Marc Bohan learning about his booting out from Hebe Dorsey of the Trib.Let somebody dig the ground first.
Makes one wonder how long Galliano will last given the way the collections have faltered as he tries to get a toehold on commercial ground.
The showman must now be a salesman.As though Mr A has reminded him, in Napoleonic fashion, that his country England was (is?) a nation of shopkeepers and commerce must rule.
The spring 09 collection is like a full circle. Galliano erased the haute bourgeoise legacy, but now looks set to dress the daughters of that same jolie madame set.

[Helene]

I think you're absolutely right Ms. P&C. The utter disregard and lack of tact Garavani, Giametti and Permira's Board of Directors displayed towards Alessandra Facchinetti tends to leave a very sour taste. Unfortunately, this type of drama is so common throughout the industry that I doubt anyone will remember in six months time. I am sad to see however that other than a brief mention by NY Times' critic Cathy Horyn on her blog this weekend, no one dares call them on their egregiously unprofessional behavior. It speaks volumes about how fashion 'journalists', critics and editors view their roles within the industry.

Helene

[Ms. P&C]

This is the kind of backstabbing that makes me hate the fashion industry. It also makes me suspicious of the way luxury firms (European luxury firms in particular,) do their business.
It think it's shameful of Mr. Garavani to ruin, or at the very least falter, the career of a young promising designer because of his own insecurities. I feel embarrassed for him.

Valentino has had all these acclamations, a film and a retrospective lately...isn't that enough praise to one man's genius? Time to let go before you make a fool of yourself...oh wait, too late.