The Luxe Chronicles

Trick Or Treat?!?!?!

The Luxe Chronicles wishes you Happy Halloween!

All looks from Maison Martin Margiela, Spring/Summer 2009. Photos by Marcio Madeira, courtesy of Style.com.

Hommage: Because Men Too Are Worth It

The unprecedented growth of personal wealth we've witnessed over the past ten years or so has been accompanied by the proliferation of so-called luxury brands all clamoring for a piece of the lucrative luxury market. I routinely log on to find an "in" box clogged with press releases all singing the praises of this product or that brand offering luxury this and luxury that. More often than not, the claims amount to little more than misplaced (some might say misguided) optimism. Just because a brand calls itself 'luxury' doesn't necessarily make it so. Nor for that matter does affixing an inflated price tag to the product. Every so often however, I come across the real deal and it never fails to excite me.

I was contacted recently about a new line of luxury grooming equipment, skincare and spa services for men called Hommage. Headquartered in Paris, Hommage is by most standards a very young brand having been founded in 2005. Despite this, something about the look and feel of their products leapt off the screen and suggested to me that this company has an inherent understanding of what it means to be a luxury brand. My hunch was confirmed recently when I had the opportunity to interview the co-founder and CEO of Hommage, Tom Wilscam. We discussed the company's philosophy and deep commitment to design, craftsmanship and performance of their products and services. Click below to read the Q&A.

BFC's Harold Tillman: A Clear-Eyed Vision For London's Fashion Industry

Sometimes it takes a crises for leadership to emerge and meaningful reform to take place. Many of you may followed the  turmoil surrounding London Fashion Week a few weeks ago when the British Fashion Council (organizers of London Fashion Week) butted heads with the Council of Fashion Designers of America (organizers of New York Fashion Week) over 2009 show schedules. The controversy brought to the surface some of the issues that have plagued London's fashion industry for some time now namely industry-wide discord tinged with a certain resentment towards New York's fashion industry and its relative muscle.

From left to right: BFC Chairman Harold Tillman; BFC President Hilary Riva; CFDA President Diane von Furstenberg and CFDA Executive Director Steven Kolb.

Auction Watch: A Bellwether For The Luxury Industry?

The current economic turmoil and impending recession has everyone trying to guess what the fallout will be for the luxury industry. While most will agree that luxury conglomerates such as LVMH, Groupe Richemont and  PPR, the three industry leaders, have done better than expected to date, the sad reality is that the general economy has not quite caught up to financial markets yet and so we've only really begun to feel the impact of the current financial crisis. It's therefore anyone's guess what the ultimate damage will be to the sector.  While the only real certitude may be that there is more pain  to come, recent anecdotal evidence from the auction houses may provide hints of emerging trends.

Photo: Zagliani python clutch, image courtesy of Porfolio.com.

On Fashion & Politics: Sarah Palin and the Cost of Looking Vice-Presidential

I never thought I would find myself defending Sarah Palin given that I loath just about everything she stands for politically, but I've reached my limit with the current kerfuffle  over the cost of her campaign trail wardrobe. Leaving aside the issue of whether or not the manner in which the purchases were made violated election campaign finance laws, I would like to address the issue of cost. I hate to break it to all the closet sexists out there, men and women combined, but a good quality professional wardrobe for women is hideously expensive and for the record, $150,000 USD for clothing, accessories, hair and make-up is not surprising in the least.

Photo courtesy of The New York Times.

The House of Masquerade: Vodka and Vintage Fashion

It's late and truth be told, I'm just a teensy bit tipsy thanks to the launch party for The House of Masquerade sponsored by Absolut Vodka. The House of Masquerade is a temporary vintage fashion boutique combined with a cocktail bar (a potentially lethal combination, I know). It officially opens tomorrow, Friday, October 24th until Monday, October 27th and features vintage fashions lovingly assembled by Mint boutique. If you get a moment, it's well worth your time to peruse the very glamorous collection assembled for this temporary boutique. I spotted a number of authentic military waistcoats that could easily be mistaken for pieces from Alexander McQueen's Fall/Winter 2008 collection and even a heavily embellished Oleg Cassini cocktail dress. The House of Masquerade is located at 68-72 Redchurch Street, Shoreditch, London E2 7DP. It is open from 5:00 p.m. until 11:00 p.m.  Enjoy!

Sincerely,

The Luxe Chronicles

An Open Letter To Hedi Slimane: Please Come Back!

Dear Hedi Slimane:

Congratulations on your superb photo spread for Vogue Homme Japon. The photos are beautiful. Truly. This said, it worries me when I see you passionately pursuing interests other than fashion design. Especially now that you've just signed with Art + Commerce, an agency that represents photographers, stylists, hairstylists, and makeup artists. You see, like many avid followers of fashion, I was terribly sad when you left Dior Homme and I keep hoping that you will resurface somewhere and get back to turning out beautiful, sharply tailored garments for men and women. So while I appreciate that you're developing your considerable artistic talent via this other medium, I believe I speak for many of my readers when I say, please, please, please get back to turning out gorgeous clothing.

Sincerely,

The Luxe Chronicles

An Ode To Anna Wintour: It's Time To Give Credit Where Credit Is Due

It was one thing for wannabe fashion critics to comment on fashion from their laptops (fashion's equivalent of armchair quarterbacking), but the day real-life New York Times fashion critic Cathy Horyn borrowed a page from their playbook, something shifted in the world of fashion.  As you may recall, Horyn was prevented from attending Marc Jacobs Fall 2008 collection thanks to a bout of flu but weighed in nonetheless without ever leaving the comfort of her home thanks to Style.com. Jacobs even took the time to post a comment on Horyn's blog in response to her post (his is number 30). Horyn's move (whether she was aware of it or not at the time) signaled to every would-be fashion critic with access to an internet connection and a blogging platform that physical presence in the front row of a fashion show although undoubtedly useful (not to mention a great deal of fun), was not absolutely necessary and could be dispensed with when required. Further validation came recently when Lanvin's hugely influential creative director and darling of the fashion press, Alber Elbaz, declared to French fashion magazine l'Officiel that as far as he was concerned, the real fashion critics are bloggers. (September 2008, pp. 214-216).

Lest we forget, we all have none other than American Vogue's Anna Wintour to thank for this. The launch of Style.com and the rapidity with which a frustrated fashion follower in Nunivik can log on and find out what the Milan shows have in store for her Spring/Summer 2009 wardrobe within a few hours of the label's fashion show, has had a seismic effect on fashion. Her move was as gutsy as it was innovative - the easy access to high quality images of fashion has meant that copycats and counterfeiters also have an easier time pilfering precious intellectual property. On the whole however, I personally believe her initiative has increased the popularity and enjoyment of fashion by permitting virtually anyone, anywhere unprecedented access and therefore has been good for the industry. It has also allowed armchair fashion commentary by passionate followers of fashion that much easier and for this, I am immensely grateful. Thank you Anna. We owe you one!

Sincerely,

The Luxe Chronicles

"Don't mention it."

Book Review: Michael Roberts' 'Fashion Victims'

If you're anything like me, you've been obsessively chasing down every last detail of the Spring/Summer 2009 collections unveiled recently in New York, London, Milan and Paris, comparing lines, volume and shapes of things to come. I for one am feeling somewhat hung over from the whole affair. To keep from becoming too obsessive, it's helpful to take a step back and keep a healthy perspective on things. I have just the trick for you: Fashion Victims: The Catty Catalogue of Stylish Casualties, From A to Z by Michael Roberts (Harper Collins 2008). From his privileged perch as fashion and style director of Vanity Fair, Roberts has adopted the role of cultural anthropologist carefully identifying and then meticulously deconstructing the strange 'tribes' that inhabit the sometimes bizarre but always entertaining world of international fashion. Roberts also put his background in fine art and graphic art to good use representing the various tribes he routinely encounters. As beautiful as his collages are (and they are indeed very beautiful), it is his witty and insightful commentary delivered in a crisp, sharp prose that more than justifies the purchase of this very funny book. Margaret Meade could not have done a better job had she been parachuted into the main tent at Bryant Park herself. Well done Mr. Roberts!

Sincerely,

The Luxe Chronicles

P.S. The book is available for purchase in the U.S. and is scheduled for release in the U.K. shortly.

A Rare Instance Of Honesty In The Fashion And Beauty Industry

If you read this blog with any regularity, chances are you've come across more than one post that reveals my utter contempt for celebrity culture and it's unfortunate influence on fashion. I tend to be particularly contemptuous of the way fashion editors wax poetic about these cheap, cynical ploys to 'cash in' and convince consumers of the merit of these "projects".  Every so often however, there is a glimmer of pure, unadulterated (some might say vicious) honesty in the fashion and beauty industry. It happens so rarely that when it does, we should really savour it. The most recent instance is Chandler Burr's scathing review of the new Danielle Steel fragrance, Danielle by Danielle Steel produced under license by Elizabeth Arden. I can't possibly do it justice - I encourage you to read it yourselves.  

Sincerely,

The Luxe Chronicles

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