Fashion: Rise of the Street Fashion Chronicler

I suppose this moment was inevitable. Ever since Style.com started featuring Scott Schuman's (aka The Sartorialist) hugely influential snaps of the international fashion set on their way to and from various fashion shows during Fashion Weeks in Milan, Paris, New York and London, the engouement for "street fashion" has grown exponentially with similar blogs and websites popping up all over the place. The influence of street fashion chroniclers is undeniable. Mr. Schuman for instance is currently working on his first book featuring a selection of his personal favorites and a number of his regular subjects including fashion editors such as Vogue Nippon's Anna dello Russo and Uomo Vogue's Giovanna Battaglia have become virtual celebrities in their own right with legions of dedicated followers hanging on every sartorial detail. But it is the recent unveiling of Lane Crawford's Spring/Summer campaign featuring the work of street fashion chronicler Tommy Ton that really drives the point home: The world of fashion is in the midst of a major realignment of power and influence.

Personally, I see Mr. Schuman's book deal and Mr. Ton's campaign for Lane Crawford as a validation of the voyeuristic art form commenced decades ago by The New York Times' Bill Cunningham. But perhaps more importantly, it is the recognition of the genre's commercial value that signals most clearly the shift in influence. Not so long ago, the norm for fashion houses and major luxury retailers was to hire a famous fashion photographer like Mario Testino or Patrick Demarchellier who would shoot a very slick series of photographs featuring a coterie of beauties or perhaps an A List celebrity whose every imperfection or sign of individuality was photoshopped or airbrushed away prior to hitting the billboards and newsstands. The Lane Crawford campaign is practically akin to guerilla marketing in comparison. Alas, the times are tough and retailers and fashion brands are hurting. The budgets are considerably tighter than they were even a season ago and neither A list celebrities nor influential fashion photographers come cheap. The economic argument in favor of paired down advertising campaigns is therefore a powerful one.

It would be too trite however to reduce the changes currently afoot in the world of fashion and retailing exclusively to the current economic crisis. The influence of mainstream fashion publications on consumers had already started to dwindle prior to the downturn as an increasing number of women and men began to question the beauty and style ideals peddled by the industry. Personally, what attracted me to sites such as The Sartorialist, AltamiraNYC and Garance Dore were precisely the subjects' subtle imperfections that signal to me that this is a real person who put herself together without the help of a professional stylist, make-up artist and hairdresser. Her fashion choices that day were dictated not by a stylist or the corporate interests of a fashion publication but were made strictly in accordance to her mood, personal tastes, weather and budget (not necessarily in that order). This is especially evident in the images featured by Garance Dore and AltamiraNYC who feature a mix of fashion professionals and civilians. Mr. Ton in contrast seems to prefer the fashion editors, stylists and other fashion professionals as subjects. But, as Mr. Ton's images posted on his Jak and Jill Blog reveal, even fashion professionals don't always get it absolutely right all the time. Call me crazy but I find this immensely appealing. The occasional sartorial missteps or fashion faux pas go a long way in humanizing these "Glamazons". After all, what good is a fashion ideal if you know from the outset that you can't possibly attain it? In tough economic times, keeping the goal just slightly out of reach but still theoretically attainable may just be what the retail doctor ordered.

Sincerely,

The Luxe Chronicles

Comments

[Mashel Hamsah]

Love this piece Helene. Couldn't agree more.

[Declan Chan]

Check out the video of this campaign.
http://declanchan.blogspot.com/2009/03/shoe-gazing-and-style-spotlight.html

[Helene]

I think you're absolutely right - there is an element of "show" in the subjects portrayed and there is quite a bit of editing (both in terms of which subjects get photographed and which images get posted). This said, I see a clear distinction in the more spontaneous images that are taken of everyday people or "civilians" and those taken of the fashion professionals throughout the various fashion weeks and related industry events.

To me, the most compelling aspect of these blogs is the depiction of individuality - these people look good but not perfect, they get a lot right but sometimes not, they have wrinkles, they have windswept hair, their trousers have creases, their shoes are scuffed or simply they try way too hard. After years of being bombarded by beauty and style ideals dictated by a fashion establishment that is notoriously unkind to women and an era of over-styled celebrities, I find this genre hugely compelling.

Of course, at the end of the day, these bloggers/photographers are all just trudging down a path forged by Bill Cunningham. Moreover, I agree with you that unlike Cunningham who doesn't seem to give a hoot about who he photographs, I get a sense that most of the others are indeed seeking admission to the freak show that is fashion. I can't blame them though - as far as freak shows go, fashion is a fun one to belong to.

Helene

[Ms. P&C]

Yes, but are we sure that these folks are dressing for the street style photogs they're sure to meet on their way to the shows? I think they do.

Also, The New Yorker style issue out this week has a whole profile on Bill Cunningham talking about this too. Yesterday's Jezebel had picked it up, mentioning that these "street style" photo journalists seem to be clamoring for a place at the proverbial fashion table, especially given the success of The Sartorialist.

That's fine I guess, and I suppose that's what all the fashion bloggers want deep down in their secret hearts. But I will venture that while I love these blogs (especially Altamira & Garance Dore,) I think the people they showcase are indeed the exceptions to street style rather than the norm. Let's face it, most of New York City still looks like a slob every day. Let's not think that these photo subjects aren't very carefully edited and composed. I have to wonder how much really is "street", begging the question at the beginning of this comment.