Luxury: Much More than Meets the Eye at Van Cleef & Arpels

When it comes to the luxury industry, there are some brands where what you see is essentially what you get. Then, there are others that are so multi-faceted, so rich in history and tradition that exploring them is not unlike peeling back the layers of an onion, only much sweeter smelling and infinitely more exciting. I was given the opportunity to discover this for myself recently on a recent jaunt to Paris as a guest of legendary fine jeweler Van Cleef and Arpels.

Occupying virtually the entire North-East corner of Place Vendome, Van Cleef and Arpels needs little introduction. But, unless you're a jewelry aficionado, then like me your knowledge of the historic brand is probably limited to glossy magazine adverts and a few details gleaned here and there. While these experiences may create strong impressions in and of themselves, they really only scratch the surface and ultimately fail to reveal the true magic of the brand. More importantly, they only hint at the depth of skill and dedication to excellence that forms the core values of this historic enterprise.

For instance, did you know that Van Cleef and Arpels was at its origin less a business partnership than an actual love affair? Alfred Van Cleef and Estelle Arpels met, fell in love and eventually married and went on to found the business in 1906. Did you also know that Van Cleef and Arpels created some of the most innovative and influential jewelry designs of the 20th century including the minaudiere (late 1920's), the extraordinary Mystery Setting (1930's) and the Zip Necklace (1950) which by the way, works exactly as the name suggests? Did you also know that it can easily take up to one full year for a team of expert craftsmen to create some of the more intricate pieces of jewelry? Herein resides the core of Van Cleef and Arpels' magic.

During our visit, the team at Van Cleef and Arpels kindly brought out a series of archival pieces including an intricate minaudiere dating from the late 1920's and a fabled Zip Necklace from 1950, enough to make any lover of exquisite jewels weak at the knees. Many of these pieces will shortly travel to Japan for an exclusive exhibition highlighting the brand's history and celebrating its long list of innovative design. For me however, the highlight was a visit to the ateliers (a rare privilege) where a small group of mains d'or work their magic high above the hubbub of Place Vendome. Rows of men and women in white lab coats carefully sculpting, cutting, setting and polishing various elements which will eventually be combined into magnificent jewels for a very select set of customers and dedicated collectors. Considered amongst the best craftsmen in the world, together they form the brain trust of Van Cleef and Arpels.

Like most people who walk through the doors of Van Cleef and Arpels, I expected to be wowed by the magnificence of the jewels and the deep, rich history of the brand. In this respect, Van Cleef and Arpels did not disappoint. But, it was also a revelation to witness just how relaxed and genuinely warm the atmosphere is there starting at the very top with CEO and President Stanislas de Quercize right through to the sertisseurs (stone cutters) and other mains d'or who lovingly craft the magnificent jewels for which the house is renown. There is a sense here that one is part of a large family, one that is passionate about their history, their expertise and their products. They have every reason to be.

Sincerely,

The Luxe Chronicles

Top: An image from Van Cleef and Arpels' 1936 order book featuring a special commission for a Cravate necklace (Facetted rubies and diamonds set in platinum) ordered for the Duchess of Windsor.

Below: The Cravate necklace produced for the Duchess of Windsor (Left). The Zip necklace (Right).

Comments

[Helene]

Dear Mr. Richard:

Thank you for your comment. I perused your blog dedicated to the inaccuracies relating to Estelle/Esther Arpels. I was unaware of the issue. If your research is in fact accurate, you raise a perfecly valid question.

I don't know whether you've already tried contacting VC&A directly about this matter. If not, I would suggest you do so. In all my dealings with VC&A, I've found the entire team to be both professional and genuinely open to questions (even pointed ones) including Mr. de Quercize.

Helene

[richard]

Hello

Almost all the text on the history of Van Cleef and Arpels is false.
It's not your fault but that of lla VCA house that insists on continuing to produce this false
story invented by Jacques Arpels.
Estlle Arpels never existed, it was called "Esther" There was no Charles Arpels, but Solomon.
Arpels fled the United States in 1939 while Rachel Renee the only daughter of Mighty Alfred Van Cleef
was "suicide" on 12/12/1942 at Vichy, without heirs.
Why is the CEO of Van Cleef and Arpels, continues to tell this false story? Of pride and stupidity then? but respect for the dead and customers that we do t?
It is obvious that I will accept any contadistoire debate with the CEO of Van Cleef

Jean Jacques Richard