Too often in fashion, the industry opts for hype over substance. Usually someone young, cute and perky with a smidgeon of talent gets anointed by the "right people" and they're off and running before they can even walk. Before the ink is dry on their design degree, they unveil an eponymous line followed in quick succession by accessories, a fragrance, a diffusion line, a one-off collaboration with Target or H&M, etc., etc. Every so often however, someone comes along and reminds you that there is more to good fashion than all this hoopla.
The August edition of British Vogue features an interesting profile of Lanvin's Alber Elbaz by its editor-in-chief Alexandra Shulman. In many respects, Mr. Elbaz runs contrary to most stereotypes associated with "designers" - beyond his obvious talent, he is known as a nice, decent man in an industry that is neither nice nor particularly decent. His career has had its ups and downs and he has kissed his share of frogs before finding the right fit at Lanvin. If you're not already in love with the very lovable Mr. Elbaz, you will be once you've read this article. I've extracted my favorite quotes for your enjoyment:
On his recruitment policy at Lanvin:
"The people I chose to run the store are nice. I cannot work with bitches, Alexandra. I can't. I can't. (...) Talent is amazing - I love it, I appreciate it. I respect talent a lot. But if you ask me, 'Talent and bitch, or less talent and good?', I'll go with less talent."
On his ouster from Yves Saint Laurent by Gucci Group:
"Some people had a different perception of my work, or thought that a designer should be more handsome or more out there, which is not my story."
Of the 17 job interviews that preceded his current position at Lanvin:
"There were two that I wanted and 15 that I didn't, but the two that I wanted didn't want me. Those two were the ones that came back three years later begging me, and I said 'Too late baby!'".
On the business of fashion:
"'Every decade, there is [a] new way of growing the business,' he says. 'In the Seventies, everybody invested in licenses so every designer sold their name and their soul. Then there was another system of going public and everyone thought it was an amazing idea, and how didn't I think of it before? But then you realize every decision has to be a public decision, so it doesn't work. Then people moved into groups, and you find out that you are no longer independent but very dependent. It's a very interesting time, this crash coming now - maybe it [sic] clear the air. It's very depressing people losing their jobs, but I think easy keel you. Easy makes you fat. That is why I'm always on a diet."
It is a lovely profile of a lovely man. I recommend you read it for yourselves.
Sincerely,
The Luxe Chronicles
Portrait of Alber Elbaz by David Sims.
"Before the ink is dry on their design degree, they unveil an eponymous line followed in quick succession by accessories, a fragrance, a diffusion line, a one-off collaboration with Target or H&M, etc., etc."
they couldn't be jack and lazaro, could they? ;)
Posted by: (angry) deacon | Friday, July 17, 2009 at 05:04