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Hung Up On The 90's Hedi?

Oct 07 2015

Saint Laurent:Spring Summer 2016

Didn't catch the recent Saint Laurent show during Paris Fashion Week? Not to worry, I'll fill your in.

Remember back in the 90's when Courtney Love and her gal pal Amanda de Cadenet partied hard in tiaras and vintage slip dresses? Do you also remember Kate Moss' hot pants and Wellies look at Glastonbury during her Pete Dougherty, sex, drugs & rock n' roll days? Voila! That sums up the Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2016 collection.

Mr. Slimane, if you're done, Ms. Love and Ms. Moss would like their wardrobes back now please.


The Luxe Chronicles

Courtney Love: Amanda de Cadenet 1


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Dear Francois:

Thank you for taking the time to leave your comment.

If you don't already work for the Saint Laurent brand or the Kering empire then you should submit your CV as you're spouting the company's talking points perfectly. The "it's selling really well therefore it must be good" argument is being peddled crossed the fashion industry by the brand and so-called friendly fashion journalists. If we were to accept this argument at face value, then we would also have to agree that Ugg boots and Croc shoes are "outstanding" as both sell really well. Are you willing to go on record to defend Uggs and Crocs too Francois?

Taking basic elements of clothing (a slip dress, a perfecto jacket, a pair of Wellies) and sending them down the runway is not designing. It reminds me of when Kate Moss pulled various vintage frocks from her wardrobe, gave it to the Topshop design team to copy and tweak and called it "a collection". It was cynical when Kate Moss/Topshop did it and it remains cynical today, all the more so because unlike Moss, Hedi Slimane is an actual designer.

Make no mistake about it, Hedi Slimane is a talented designer and arguably one of the most influential of his generation. Perhaps this is why we expect more of him. That talent however is simply not being put to use at Saint Laurent. You can celebrate the quarterly sales increases all you want but under Slimane's direction, Saint Laurent has become nothing more than a very expensive version of Zara.


The Luxe Chronicles

Since he joined Saint Laurent as head of design and creation, the House really touches the sky. In a globally decreasing luxury market, the brand still show 30% increase each quarter... Crazy! And the collection is obviously outstanding

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The Luxe Chronicles is a collection of interviews, profiles and musings on various aspects of the luxury industry and occasionally, a rant on our celebrity obsessed culture and the dumbing down of our collective sense of style and esthetic.

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